Master craftsmanship breathing

through Chūsen dyeing.

During the Edo period, the domestic cultivation of cotton and production of cotton textiles advanced, leading to the widespread use of cotton tenugui. They were used in public bathhouses and as head coverings, effectively becoming a type of personal accessory. In Edo, Kabuki actors and people of refined taste commissioned custom-dyed tenugui with their favorite designs, which were also given out as gifts. Against this backdrop, Chūsen (pour dyeing) of tenugui began in Edo during the late Edo period. With the spread of Chūsen after the Meiji era, the practice of distributing custom-ordered tenugui with unique designs expanded to general commercial and industrial businesses, and the lineup of commercially available tenugui also grew.

Originating as a practical item for wiping oneself after bathing, the Yukata developed during the Edo period into “after-bath wear” and later as relaxing evening wear for the summer. In the Meiji era, it became established as standard everyday summer clothing. Yukata fabric dyed using the Nagaita Chugata technique inherited from Edo was a specialty product of Tokyo, but the application of Chūsen to Yukata fabric began in the late Meiji period. By the early Showa period, Chūsen became synonymous with Tokyo Yukata fabric, cherished as summer attire suitable for modern urban life. Even today, they are widely worn as casual summer kimonos, especially at summer events like firework displays and festivals. They are also used as sleepwear and loungewear in accommodations such as ryokan (Japanese inns). Besides being tailored into Yukata, the tanmono (bolts of fabric) are also being applied to make Western-style clothing like shirts, and accessories like bags.