Tokyo Honzome Chūsen : Yukata and Tenugui

Tokyo Honzome Chūsen : Yukata and Tenugui

今日におけるさまざまな手ぬぐいの用途

During the Edo period, domestic cotton cultivation and cotton textile production advanced, leading to the widespread use of cotton hand towels (Tenugui). They were used at public bathhouses (Sento) and as head coverings, effectively becoming a type of fashion accessory. In Edo (now Tokyo), kabuki actors and sophisticated individuals commissioned custom-dyed Tenugui with their favorite designs, which were also given as gifts.

Against this backdrop, the Chūsen (pour-dyeing) technique for Tenugui began in Edo towards the end of the Edo period. With the popularization of Chūsen after the Meiji era, the practice of distributing custom-ordered Tenugui featuring unique designs spread to general merchants and industrialists, and the range of commercially available Tenugui expanded significantly.

Today, Tenugui have various uses, including:

  • Wiping hands, wiping dishes, or as a pot holder.
  • Wrapping items (bento boxes, PET bottles, tissue cases, book covers, etc.).
  • As a fashion item (worn around the neck, or wrapped around the head in various styles).
  • Moistened and used as a wet hand towel (oshibori).
  • Dyed with a message-oriented design for distribution as greetings, keepsakes, New Year’s gifts, or other commemorative purposes.

In Tokyo, the culture of custom-dyeing and distributing Tenugui with original designs, a tradition continuing from the Edo period, is still inherited and practiced today.

Chūsen (Pour-Dyeing) Tenugui and Yukata Fabric Dyed in the Tokyo Area

《むかしむかし》松屋製　注染　差分染 豊田コレクション

《Mukashi Mukashi (Once Upon a Time)》 Produced by Matsuya Technique: Chūsen (Sashibun-zome, Partial Dyeing)
From the Toyoda Collection

《矢の根五郎》松田青風図案、東京松山手拭店製　注染　細川染　美蘇芽会第71回作品（昭和8年1月）　豊田コレクション

《Yanone Goro (Goro the Arrowhead)》 Design by Seifu Matsuda Produced by Tokyo Matsuyama Tenugui Store Technique: Chūsen (Hosokawa-zome, Hosokawa Dyeing) 71st Misome-kai Exhibition Piece (January 1933)
From the Toyoda Collection

《 横筋に菱格子花菱文様ゆかた地》東京中形振興会会員製造 注染 一色染め　綿絽地　豊田コレクション

《Yukata Fabric with Horizontal Stripes, Diamond Lattice, and Hanabishi Pattern》 Manufactured by a member of the Tokyo Chūgata Promotion Association Technique: Chūsen (Isshoku-zome, Single-Color Dyeing) Material: Cotton Ro-ji (Ro Weave Fabric)
From the Toyoda Collection

《別染　松美会　銀座ゆかた》注染　細川染　豊田コレクション

《Bessen (Custom-Dyed) Shobikai Ginza Yukata》 Technique: Chūsen (Hosokawa-zome, Hosokawa Dyeing)
From the Toyoda Collection

Note: Shobikai was an event organized by Matsuya Department Store (Kimono section) to showcase the latest trends.

About Tokyo Honzome Chūsen Yukata (Yukata Fabric)

三翠会中形 注染ゆかた地

“Sansuikai Chugata” (Sansuikai’s Chugata-style fabrics) Featured in the ‘Mitsukoshi Catalogue No. 94 Appendix’, published June 1933. The Sansuikai was a group formed by influential Tokyo Chugata wholesalers who were business partners of the Mitsukoshi department store. The publication features Chūsen Yukata fabrics that won awards at the group’s exhibition.

Originating as a practical item for wiping oneself after bathing, the yukata developed during the Edo period into a “post-bath garment,” becoming a relaxed summer evening wear. In the Meiji era, it became established as standard summer casual wear. While Yukata fabric dyed using the Nagaita Chugata technique, inherited from the Edo period, was a specialty of Tokyo, the application of the Chūsen (pour-dyeing) technique to Yukata fabric began in the late Meiji period. In the early Showa period, Chūsen became synonymous with Tokyo Yukata fabric, cherished as a summer outfit suitable for modern urban life. Even today, the Yukata is widely worn as a casual summer kimono, particularly at summer events such as fireworks displays and festivals. It is also used as sleepwear and loungewear at accommodations like traditional inns (ryokan). Beyond being tailored into a Yukata garment, the fabric (tanmono, or bolt of cloth) is also being used to make Western clothing like shirts, as well as small items like bags.

閉じる
「三翠会中形」『三越カタログ第94号附録』昭和8年6月掲載

“Sansuikai Chugata” (Sansuikai’s Chugata-style fabrics)

Featured in the ‘Mitsukoshi Catalogue No. 94 Appendix’, published June 1933. The Sansuikai was a group formed by influential Tokyo Chugata wholesalers who were business partners of the Mitsukoshi department store. The publication features Chūsen Yukata fabrics that won awards at the group’s exhibition.

東京本染注染ゆかた反物
東京本染注染ゆかた
東京本染注染ゆかた反物
東京本染注染ゆかた
東京本染注染のゆかた反物
東京本染注染の洋服

November 2025 Edition

Supervised by: Naoko Okubo, Miyagi Gakuin Women’s University

東京都指定伝統工芸品マーク

In Tokyo, the “Tokyo Metropolitan Designated Traditional Craft Products” system was established to preserve and encourage outstanding traditional techniques. Certificates bearing this mark are affixed only to products that have passed inspection. “Tokyo Honzome Yukata” was designated on December 27, 1983. In February 2018, the name of the designated traditional craft product was changed to “Tokyo Honzome Yukata / Tenugui”. Symbol Mark for Traditional Craft Products Designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry

経済産業大臣指定伝統的工芸品のシンボルマーク

The “Traditional Mark” (Dentō Mark) is the symbol for traditional craft products designated by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry (METI). The “Traditional Certificate” (Dentō Shōshi), which uses the design of the Traditional Mark, is affixed to products that have been produced using the techniques, methods, and raw materials specified by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry and that have passed production area inspections. Products bearing this Traditional Certificate have been inspected and are delivered with pride and responsibility regarding their quality. “Tokyo Honzome Chūsen” was designated as a National “Traditional Craft Product” in October 2023.